It sounds like me you didn’t get a chance to dip your toes into Mavs during that season opener a couple weeks ago? Were you injured for that?
Yeah, so I was injured for that swell and it looked pretty insane. All those guys, like Luca Padua and Mason Barnes, were really sending it. It was definitely a bummer not being able to make it out for that, as it was right after I injured my ankle.
Well, you’ll have the rest of your life to bag some more bombs out there. You’re in a pretty pivotal time in your pursuit of becoming a professional surfer, how do you balance your desire to be a big wave surfer with that competitive focus that you have? One bad spill at Mavs could potentially put you out for a long time…
That’s an interesting question. For me right now, I surf the best when I’m just having fun. I have fun doing everything: long boarding, short boarding, competitive surfing, big wave surfing. I honestly feel like the best surfer is good all around, doing everything. So I kinda try and do everything.
I feel that with big wave surfing, it’s not too often that the waves are big, so it’s kinda easy to balance that with regular short boarding. When it’s that big anyway, you’re probably not going to be short boarding.
It keeps it fun, too. That’s a good attitude to have. People can get burnt out doing something when it stops being fun. I remember when you were probably 13 or 14, before you were surfing Mavs, I talked to your mom about you possibly surfing Mavs someday and I could just read the anxiety on her face.
She said, “I can’t really control him. He’s dead set on going out there” (laughs). Since you’ve proven you can hang out there, has she relaxed a little more about you being out there? Or is that something that a mom can never quit being worried about?
My mom might have a different answer than me, but I think that if my dad is confident with me being out there, she kinda has trust in his judgement. Especially because he has so much experience surfing out there himself. She takes that as a sign that I’m prepared. But still, I’m sure it’s stressful and she had to go through the same thing when he was surfing out there.